Haute Couture

Zuhair Murad Spring-Summer 2024

Capturing for the gentle season the timeless spirit of an inventive civilization that continues to inspire and enchant, Zuhair Murad pays homage to the Phoenicians' love for the sea. It is an ode to light, waves, wind, marine sparkles, and the gentle amber of Mediterranean sunsets. A couture collection throughout which Zuhair Murad merges the ancient and the modern through a dazzling celebration of the Phoenician heritage. 


A potent sensuality pervades these creations where the craftsmanship of an ancient seafaring people, whose primary calling was to explore the world, finds expression.

Strong female figures, goddesses such as Astarte, Elissa, or Tanit, lend their radiance to the collection. Europe, the Phoenician princess, abducted by Zeus transformed into a bull and placed on the western edge of the Mediterranean, is also present—a bridge-like character between the shores of the central sea. 


Omnipresent, drapery, Greco-Roman pendants, arabesques, and cascading chains evoke, on precious fabrics such as caddy crepe, chiffon, lame lurex, charmeuse, or satin, the movement of water and the treasures of ships sailing the seas. A long kimono dress, in ivory satin, is adorned with crystals resembling sea spray along its edges. Sheaths, capes, and delicate tunics are enriched with motifs drawn from mosaics, in carefully chosen details or opulent panels.
Fluid, the cuts evoke the joy of waves and the freedom of bodies. Subtle embroideries, beaded fringes, bold jewelry encrusted with crystals add a contemporary touch to the masterful inspiration and surround the silhouettes with a mystical aura. 


Metallic inlays capture the brilliance of the sun on the sea and borrow its delicacy from iridescent glass, a material, the legend says, discovered one morning among the remains of a great nocturnal fire on the sands of Tyre. This proud island city, which withstood seven months under the blockade of Alexander the Great, foreshadows for the creator contemporary Lebanon where beauty is an act of resistance. 


The palette unfolds in Mediterranean colors and metallic reflections. In faded reds, it recalls marine twilights and the wine of amphorae. A deep green evokes olives and their oil, the wealth of Phoenician plains. Glistening notes of silver, iron, bronze, and copper salute the jewelry craftsmanship of a people known for their luxury and ability to create desire. 


Between veils and nudity, fluid cuts and sheaths sculpting curves, the collection travels through time, parting the foam, and speaks to free and conquering women, aware of their allure, playful as sirens, and upright as figureheads.
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